Saturday, January 31, 2009

Paint Brushes are an Investment

Paint Brushes are an Investment
by: Emma Snow


Brushes are the most important painter's tools. Buying brushes is not just a random decision, but one that should be made carefully. Selection of brushes is personal and is based upon needs and level of investment desired. Because a brush will only last as well as it is cared for, proper cleaning and storage of brushes is probably even more important than the decision of what brush to buy. Because no matter how wonderful a brush is, if it is abused it will quickly be discarded.

Types of Brushes

The hair of the brush is what primarily denotes what type of brush it is and it's purpose. Although natural hair brushes usually cost more, they do not all create the same results. Sable hair brushes are probably the most popular brushes. They are soft haired brushes that move the paint easily and keep their point. Sable brushes are great for watercolor. Hog hair is also used to make brushes, but has a very different effect with media. Hog hair brushes are stiff brushes for heavy paint and will leave brush strokes behind. They have spilt ends and hold more paint and are used in oil painting. Synthetic brushes are also common for artists to use. These are generally less expensive, but still produce quality work. Paint brushes are an artist tools and several different types are needed depending on the project and desired result sought. More expensive brushes keep their shape after a stroke and do not fishtail or bend when paint is applied to paper or canvas and therefore have a more professional result. Less expensive brushes may be suited for some jobs, especially when used in crafts and with products like glue. The other factor identifying a brush is the handle. Traditionally long handled brushes are used for oil painting because the artist is standing at an easel. Shorter handled brushes are for watercolor and acrylics because the artist is sitting and painting in greater detail.

Cleaning and Care for Brushes

Because how well a brush is cared for effects how long the brush will last, extra effort put in to properly care for these important tools will be well worth the time. All brushes will eventually wear out and will then need to be replaced, but lengthening the span of time before that is necessary will help the budget. Cleaning is crucial to extending the life of a brush. Each brush should be cleaned immediately after use. Use a mild soap and clean in the palm of the hand. Rinse thoroughly and when water runs clear, lay the brush flat to dry. It should not be left vertical to dry as this will cause water to be pulled into the handle and will ultimately cause the handle to loosen and the brush will no longer be usable. Paint brushes should never be left sitting in a glass of water. Other than the effect it will have on the handle, it will crush the bristles. If the brushes are soaked, use a brush container that will suspend them and only fill the water to soak the bristles and not the ferrule or handle. After the paint brush is cleaned and dried it may be stored upright, or in a flat brush holder. Cleaning brushes is not only done at the end of a painting session, but should be done as needed. As a person is painting, effort should be made to keep paint away from the ferrule of the brush, but inevitably will naturally be drawn up the brush. As the paint gets close to the ferrule, it should then be cleaned. This is to prevent the paint from getting under the ferrule and drying there. Natural hair brushes also need to be conditioned on a regular basis. There are paint brush soaps that come with conditioners in them, or conditioner can be bought separately.

Make the investment of brushes one that will be used wisely. The results that a good paint brush produces are worth the initial cost, but only if the effort is made to care for them and extend the value of the investment.

DPI and Why - Resolution Does Matter

DPI and Why - Resolution Does Matter
by: Tedric Garrison


When I started on the internet I was a photographer and a science fiction fan. Since I had no science fiction photos of my own, I started surfing the web. After several months of looking through many Sci-Fi web sites, I realized that most of those sites used small thumb nail size prints (usually 1 inch x 1 ¼ inch or smaller). This was back in the days that a 28.8 modem was considered high speed.

The reason these thumb nails were so small was that it took so much time for the pictures to come up on the page. When you clicked on an individual thumb nail; a larger version of the picture came up (usually 4x6 or bigger), but it would take a very long time to do so.

Searching all the big images I could find; I saved the ones I liked, and brought them into Photoshop where I could compress them. I made my own site with images that measured a whopping 2 inch x 2 ½ inches, which was better than the small thumb nails I saw every where else. I quickly found that over 90% of their images were saved at 72dpi; so that’s what I did. For several years, I saved all my photos at 2 inch x 2 ½ inches and at 72dpi.

As my interest in photography continued to grow; I realized that a Sci-Fi web site might be cool but it made me no money. I needed to put up a web site of my own photos. By now I was using a 56k modem and decided my pictures needed to be bigger. When I scanned in my pictures I usually did them at 100% at 72dpi; so that all my images on line where now 4x6 in size.

After a few years my lab started offering pictures on CD. They were also 72dpi so I didn’t have to scan them in anymore. Life was good; but they used file sizes like 44 inches x 56 inches which at the time I really couldn’t figure out. I didn’t know anyone who ever printed something that big; so again I took those images and compressed them back down to 4x6 inch size.

Eventually, I started doing the same thing but saving them as 5x7 inch size. My new site (betterphototips.com) looked impressive and actually loaded very quickly. Yes, I also eventually stepped up to real high speed (1.5mbs per sec.) Life was good again; until I went back and started pursuing one of my other great loves (writing). I figured rather than just using this site as a gigantic portfolio; why didn’t I offer something for sale as well. You know the old adage “write about what you know best”? To me it made perfect sense that I should start writing about photography “how to” tips. That’s when things started to get complicated.

When I looking around at self publishing and print on demand publishing, I found that they all wanted pictures to be 300dpi or greater. This was a total shock to me. I had thousands of images ready to use, but they were all saved at 72dpi. I thought that Photoshop could save me again, so I started converting them to 300dpi but something didn’t look right. My 300dpi images looked worse than my 72dpi images. I was at a loss. Then I went back and did my research.

The reason the images on a CD from the lab are so huge (in measurement) is so you can use the images in either format. 72dpi is exactly 25% of 300dpi. If you want your 300dpi images to look as razor sharp as your 72dpi images do on line, the print has to be 75% smaller. In other words, an image that measures 44 inch x 56 inch at 72dpi would be the same quality as an image that measures 11 inch x 14 inch at 300dpi.

If you take an image that was originally 5x7 inches at 72dpi and try to convert it directly to 300dpi, it is not a pretty picture. Similar to the equivalent of the right f-stop and the right shutter speed, you have to take both factors into account! DPI and Size are forever tied together. You can not change one without affecting the other. It is much easier to make something smaller that looks good, than to try to enlarge something after the fact and try to make it look even close to the original. That being said, the best photo tip I can give new beginners today is: ALWAYS save your images larger than you expect to use. Do not waste 15 years of your life and thousands upon thousands of images that can only be used in one way. Always save large!!

Learning To Draw? You're Gonna Need A Pencil

Learning To Draw? You're Gonna Need A Pencil
by: Adam Valentine


If you're going to be doing any pencil drawing you're going to need a pencil. I know, I know, thank you captain obvious.... But, in this article I want to talk about some of the different options available.

Here are some of the options:

Mechanical Pencils, Lead Holders, Woodless Graphite, And ofcourse traditional wooden pencils

Mechanical Pencils: You're probably familiar with these. They're the ones that hold the lead (graphite actually) inside and when you push on the eraser more lead comes out. What you may not know is that, like traditional wooden pencils, the leads are available in various degrees of hardness which can be used to achieve lighter or darker tones as needed. We'll talk more about that later.

Lead Holders: These are somewhat similar to mechanical pencils in that you can use various leads with them. But rather than push a button to release more lead, these pencils actually have sort of a claw that grabs onto and holds the lead. Hence the term "lead holder".

Woodless Graphite: These pencils are basically a piece of graphite in the shape of a pencil. There are also some woodless graphite pencils that are encased in a laquer coating rather than wood.

Wooden Pencils: Okay. We all know what a wooden pencil is. It's the yellow one with a pink eraser on top and a number 2 on it. You know, the ones we used to fill in the little circles on our multiple choice tests in school.

Well yes, those are pencils, but a set of good quality drawing pencils comes with a lot more variety than that. All of the pencil types mentioned above come in varying degrees of hardness and are labled with a number and the letter H or B. The pencils labled H are on the hard side and the ones labled with a B are the soft ones. I don't know where the "B" comes from but that's the way it is. Pencils range from 9H (the hardest) to 9B (the softest).

The number 2 pencils we're so familiar with are right in the middle in terms of hardness. They're equivalent to an HB pencil. If you're just starting out drawing or you're just doing some doodling or sketching an HB or #2 will work just fine for you. But, if you want to get a much more interesting drawing you'll have to have some contrast between lights and darks. If all you've ever drawn with before is a number 2 pencil, the way you achieve your darker tones is simply to press down harder.

But there is a better way. That's where the softer pencils come in. After #2 in terms of softness comes B then 2B, 3B ect. all the way up to 9B. Although many artists never use anything softer than a 6B. With a 6B you can get some very dark tones and it's not going to be as soft and thus crumbly as a 9B.

For the harder pencils, I rarely use anything harder than a 2H and that's usually just for the initial line drawing before any shading takes place. Doing the initial line drawing very lightly allows you to erase any mistakes you might have made. Once your line drawing is acurate, it's time to get the softer pencils out and start shading.

So to wrap this up, if you're planning on getting a little more serious with your drawing you'll want to get a set of pencils. There are some sets out there that have just 4 pencils in them. So if you're strapped for cash this is an option. Pencils are also available individually so you can pick and choose whichever number / letter combo you need.

I prefer traditional wooden pencils for my drawings and my brand of choice is Derwent. They make sets of 12 pencils that range from 4H to 6B or from H all the way up to 9B. And, you can get a set of 12 pencils for about $12 - $15 so it's not terribly expensive to get into drawing.

So now go out, get yourself some good pencils, and start drawing....

Awesome speedpainting videos

These guys are amazing, you can learn a lot from watching their workflow

Resources for Digital Painting




The Following is a compilation of VERY helpful resources which were gathered on an art forum I post on. Their aim is to make you a better digital painter or artist in general. I highly encourage you check some of them out.

Downloads

Tutorials

Watercolor Painting Guide
http://handprint.com/HP/WCL/water.html

Paul Duffield's How To Draw Beta
http://spoonbard.deviantart.com/art/...-v1-3-40590655

Quick Sketching
http://www.drawalot.com/smblog/2007/...ng-techniques/

The Structure of Man: Video Tutorials on Anatomy by Riven Phoenix
http://the-structure-of-man.blogspot.com/

Over a Dozen links to Misc Reference Photos
http://forums.penny-arcade.com/showthread.php?t=5329

Basic Lighting/Texture/Form Tutorial and Reference Guide
http://www.itchstudios.com/psg/art_tut.htm

Alduar's Abstract Art Tutorial/Process
http://alduar.iseenothing.com/tutorials/abstract/

Feng Zhu Design Tutorials
http://www.fengzhudesign.com/tutorials.html

Tom Nguyen's "how to draw breasts"
http://www.comicon.com/cgi-bin/ultim...;f=39;t=000176

Another good Tom Nguyen article
http://www.comicon.com/cgi-bin/ultim...;f=39;t=000144

Team Special Olympics Tutorials
http://www.teamspecialolympics.com/tutorials.php

Portrait Artist Tutorials
http://www.portrait-artist.org/

Scanning Line Art
http://www.steeldolphin-forums.com/h...g_lineart.html




Tutorials

Watercolor Painting Guide
http://handprint.com/HP/WCL/water.html

Paul Duffield's How To Draw Beta
http://spoonbard.deviantart.com/art/...-v1-3-40590655

Quick Sketching
http://www.drawalot.com/smblog/2007/...ng-techniques/

The Structure of Man: Video Tutorials on Anatomy by Riven Phoenix
http://the-structure-of-man.blogspot.com/

Over a Dozen links to Misc Reference Photos
http://forums.penny-arcade.com/showthread.php?t=5329

Basic Lighting/Texture/Form Tutorial and Reference Guide
http://www.itchstudios.com/psg/art_tut.htm

Alduar's Abstract Art Tutorial/Process
http://alduar.iseenothing.com/tutorials/abstract/

Feng Zhu Design Tutorials
http://www.fengzhudesign.com/tutorials.html

Tom Nguyen's "how to draw breasts"
http://www.comicon.com/cgi-bin/ultim...;f=39;t=000176

Another good Tom Nguyen article
http://www.comicon.com/cgi-bin/ultim...;f=39;t=000144

Team Special Olympics Tutorials
http://www.teamspecialolympics.com/tutorials.php

Portrait Artist Tutorials
http://www.portrait-artist.org/

Scanning Line Art
http://www.steeldolphin-forums.com/h...g_lineart.html


A Buttload of Drawing Tutorials
http://www.drawspace.com/

Erik Gist Drawing and Painting Principles
http://www.erikgist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=131
http://www.erikgist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=132

Walt Stanchfield Notes on Gesture Drawing for Animation
http://www.animationmeat.com/notes/w...anchfield.html

Glen Vilppu Drawing Articles
1. Never Underestimate the Power of Life Drawing
2. Gesture
3. Spherical Forms
4. The Box
5. Introducing Material and Proportion
6. Drawing Ellipses
7. From the General to the Specific
8. The Landmarks of Anatomy
9. Seeing Anatomical Masses
10. Seeing The Figure As A 2D Object
11. Using Tone To Draw
12. Getting a Handle on Direct Lighting
13. Using The Idea Of Atmosphere

As our world gets more and more advanced in terms of technology, so must the arts. According to Wikkipedia, "Digital painting is an emerging art form in which traditional painting techniques such as watercolor, oils, impasto, etc. are applied using digital tools by means of a computer, a digitizing tablet and stylus, and software. Traditional painting is painting with a physical medium as opposed to a more modern style like digital. Digital painting differs from other forms of digital art, particularly computer-generated art, in that it does not involve the computer rendering from a model. The artist uses painting techniques to create the digital painting directly on the computer. All digital painting programs try to mimic the use of physical media through various brushes and paint effects. Included in many programs are brushes that are digitally styled to represent the traditional style like oils, acrylics, pastels, charcoal, pen and even media such as airbrushing. There are also certain effects unique to each type of digital paint which portraying the realistic effects of say watercolor on a digital 'watercolor' painting. In most digital painting programs, the user can create their own brush style using a combination of texture and shape. This ability is very important in bridging the gap between traditional and digital painting."